Hydrosols, distillates, extracts… You’ve likely heard these terms before, and are likely confused about what they are and what they can do for the skin. I know I was when I first dipped my toe into the world of handcrafted skin care.
But these are amazing ingredients! Once you understand them, you’ll find hundreds of ways to incorporate them into your DIY skin care products.
What Are Hydrosols?
Hydrosols are also called distillates, botanical waters, and sometimes floral waters (although terminology varies; more on this later.) You may have used hydrosols before. Rose water and orange blossom water are both common hydrosols.
Hydrosols are the by-product of creating an essential oil using the steam distillation process. Herbs, flowers, or other plant material are steamed in a special essential oil still to extract the essential oil. The steam condenses, the essential oil rises to the top and is skimmed away (think of how oil floats on water and you’ll have the idea.)
Left behind is all of the water that steamed through the plant material. This water is the hydrosol.
Hydrosols are beautifully fragrant and contain water-soluble, therapeutic constituents from the plant distilled.
Some hydrosols smell exactly like the plant they’re distilled from. Rose, for example, and orange blossom. Others, like lavender and rosemary, smell nothing like the plant nor their corresponding essential oil.
Hydrosols may also have different therapeutic benefits than their essential oil counterpart. This is because the essential oils contain the oil-soluble constituents from the particular herb, while the hydrosols contain the water-soluble constituents. You end up with two very different products, and qualities, from the same plant.
The amazing thing about hydrosols is they are super gentle–gentle enough to use undiluted on the skin. So, they are a wonderful choice for those whose skin can’t handle the potency of essential oils. Hydrosols are also lovely for use on delicate skin on the face.
Hydrosols vs Floral Water
Floral water is often used as a catch-all term for any water with an herbal or floral scent. There is no set definition as to what constitutes floral water.
Some use the terms floral water and hydrosol interchangeably; others say floral waters and hydrosols are different products altogether.
The definitions are murky and differ between where you are in the world, and who you talk to. Everyone has their idea of what floral water truly is!
For our purposes here, let’s set some definitions using a general loose agreement among many herbalists and skin care therapists.
While hydrosols are by-products made through the essential oil distillation process, floral waters are specifically created products.
Floral waters are a blend of water and essential oils, along with a solubilizer to keep the essential oils suspended evenly throughout the water.
Because they are made with essential oils, they smell exactly as we expect, basically identical to their essential oil counterpart.
For example, lavender floral water smells like fresh lavender buds. Lavender hydrosol, by comparison, has a much greener, herbaceous scent.
Floral water provides the therapeutic benefits of its corresponding essential oil.
Both hydrosols and floral waters are wonderful and cost-effective ways to get the skin care benefits and gorgeous scent without paying a premium for pricey essential oils. For example, pure rose essential oil is exorbitantly expensive, at hundreds of dollars for just a few milliliters.
But you can enjoy the fragrance and skin benefits of rose by using rose hydrosol, or rose floral water, instead.
How To Avoid Synthetic Floral Waters
Some products sold as floral waters or flower waters don’t contain essential oils at all. Instead, a synthetic fragrance oil is blended into pure water using a solubilizer. The result may smell divine, but it won’t give you any additional benefits for your skin as true floral water would.
Synthetic floral waters aren’t necessarily “bad,” but I know that most people want the real deal and not a synthetic copy. I sure do!
So, here’s how to ensure you’re getting a true floral water or hydrosol: Read the ingredient listings. It should have a botanical name OR an essential oil listed. If it has fragrance listed it’s not a natural floral water and won’t have any therapeutic benefits for your skin.
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How To Use Hydrosols and Floral Waters
Hydrosols and floral waters are beautiful, versatile ingredients for your DIY skin care. Here are some ways to incorporate them into your handmade skin care products.
Use them straight as a toner. Probably the easiest way to use these gorgeous ingredients is directly from the bottle as a toner or facial spritz. No need to dilute or add anything to them. I like to pour them into a small bottle with a mister top for easy application.
Use as a substitute for distilled water in emulsified creams and lotions. Swap out at least 20%, and up to 100%, of the water portion of your emulsified creams and lotions for an ultra-fancy twist. This is especially lovely in facial moisturizing creams. Try it in this Rosehip and Evening Primrose Facial Cream recipe.
Use to hydrate DIY facial masks. Add even more beneficial skin care qualities to your handmade masks by hydrating them with hydrosols rather than plain water. Plus it will make your finished masks smell divine! This Chocolate Rose Facial Mask is even more amazing when blended with a bit of rose hydrosol.
The Best Hydrosols and Floral Water for DIY Skin Care
I’m sure by now you’re convinced you need a few hydrosols for your handmade skin care ingredient apothecary. The only question is now, which do you choose?
Here are a few that, in my humble opinion, are perfect to start with. Their scent is what you would expect and they are great for all skin types.
Rose hydrosol: A classic! Not only does it give the most divine aroma of rose, at a fraction of the cost, but it is fabulous for the skin. Rose hydrosol is toning, cooling, and hydrating.
Rose geranium hydrosol: Another hydrosol with a gorgeous floral scent, rose geranium smells very similar to rose with a slightly green undertone. It’s soothing and balancing for the skin.
Cucumber hydrosol: Sweet, fresh, and light, cucumber hydrosol is always a favorite. It has the subtle scent of vine ripe cucumbers, and leaves your skin feeling cool, refreshed, and hydrated.
Neroli hydrosol: The sweet, exquisite scent of neroli has been used in perfumery for centuries. You can use neroli hydrosol as a simple, subtle body spray. Or try it as a healing, toning facial spritzer.
Ylang ylang hydrosol: If you love florals, ylang ylang is made for you. Extracted from a large tropical flower, ylang ylang hydrosol is heady and exotic. It’s balancing for all skin types and helps support this skin’s acid mantle.
Blood orange hydrosol: Not a floral fan? You’ll swoon over the juicy citrus scent of orange hydrosol. It’s soothing, calming, and toning for all skin types.
